Hello everyone, Murray and Tim here!
We’re so excited to put out Part 2 of our adventure cycling through South America. This post covers the last bit of Bolivia.
We thought a diary set-up would be interesting and more personal for you guys to follow along - these updates are extracts from a Whatsapp group made up of close family and friends, you’re getting all the juicy bits! Enjoy legends!
Day 63 - Tuesday
[2023/01/31]
The last two days of riding across the Salt Flats provided the most surreal and memorable experience!
Time and distance dissolve out there with nothing but earth and sky as reference points.
As we exited the salt pans yesterday we skirted the perimeter of an enchanting extinct volcano through soft sand and nomadic shepherds to a town where we stayed for the night.
Today we push on towards Oruru - should take 2/3 days and then La Paz!
Day 65 - Thursday
[2023/02/02]
As I write this, myself and Tim are on a bus heading for La Paz - the capital of Bolivia and the highest capital in the world at 3625m!
Multiple punctures (4 in two days) and the lack of any stock in Oruro forced us to turn to public transport. The bonus is that we get into La Paz a day early.
Big things are expected for Saturday - we’re planning to watch the opening game of the Bolivian soccer season with 4 Pommies we met a few days ago! Should be proper fun!
Day 69 - Monday
[2023/02/06]
Cycling into the highest capital city in the world was high up on our list but we’re glad that we opted for the bus when we rolled in. For miles before, the barren land gave nothing away before cracking into a deep chasm bursting with life. Choked with traffic and freakishly steep roads, we spotted the closest Teleferico (cable car transport) and quietly floated above the chaos as we made our way to our home for the next few days in La Paz.
Called a Casa de Ciclista, this home for cyclists allows cycle tourers to stay for free in a makeshift hostel setup. Christian the owner formed part of the eclectic tapestry of characters that made up the ever-changing Casa de Ciclista.
Enzo, a crazy Belgian dude whose been cycling around South America for 15 years ushered us up the stairs and into the lounge where we met a Colombian called Diego, a Dutchman called Tjieman, and Mara, an artist from Portugal. After enthralling chats about everyone's journeys we signed into the registry and dumped our kit in a forgotten reading room that would be our room.
All the walls and roofs were adorned with photographs, quotes, route maps and flailing memorabilia from previous travellers. By chance, Tim found his cousin's name on a South African flag from 2016 when he had done a big cycling trip himself - how insane!
We’ve spent our days in La Paz exploring bustling markets, drinking loads of Api (a warm drink made from yellow and purple corn), traversing the city on the Teleferico, catching a footy game with some banterous Brits, hitting a karaoke bar and becoming good friends with Mara.
Day 71 - Wednesday
[2023/02/08]
Yesterday we said goodbye to the incredible city of La Paz and cycled north to Lake Titicaca (how’s that for a name - sounds like a Kiwi rugga player) where we spent our last night in Bolivia!
Known as the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca straddles the border between Bolivia and Peru, we’ll cross over into Peru around midday.
Regarding the tensions around riots and protests in Peru, we’ve spoken to other cyclists who have passed through the south saying things have calmed down. A month prior, Peru had become politically unstable with protests, riots and roadblocks causing a nationwide shutdown.
As things have worked out, Mara, the Portuguese cyclist we met in La Paz is joining us on our way to Cusco - she speaks Spanish which is a huge plus regarding the instability in Peru!
We had an incredible time in La Paz and made some awesome friends. Catch you soon!
