Hello everyone, Murray and Tim here!
Welcome to part 3 of our adventure cycling through South America. We’re finally in Peru.
We’ve set out this blog as a diary so you can follow along on our day-to-day adventures - these updates are extracts from a Whatsapp group made up of close family and friends. Enjoy legends!
Day 74 - Saturday
[2023/02/11]
The first few days in Peru have been interesting!
Despite the countless roadblocks manned by old men and women, the protesters have been very civil and somewhat kind to us foreigners passing through on bicycles!
The worst of the situation seems to be in the south, specifically in the town of Juliaca - it reminded us of the Durban riots! Smouldering fires, looted storefronts and marauding protesters paint a chaotic scene. It’s a very complicated situation and we haven’t done nearly enough research into the political landscape of Peru!
Despite the blockades, the riding has been awesome and completely car-free! Essentially, foreigners on bicycles are the only people traversing the south of the country.
Absolutely beautiful scenery so far! Great to get a proper taste of Peru!
Today we’re planning for a leisurely start - aiming for a coffee shop to stream the Ireland vs France rugga! Holding thumbs the signal holds up (I’m backing Ireland).
If the wifi is bad, we’ll push on - at this pace, we’ll ride into Cusco on Monday! Very, very exciting stuff.
Day 75 - Sunday
[2023/02/12]
Yesterday morning we managed to stream the Ireland vs France game and what a game it was!
Between myself, Tim and Ron we have chosen to wage bets on specific sporting events to keep things interesting and keep our finger on the outside world’s pulse. The winner of the rounds gets dinner of his choice and the loser has to cycle 3kms in a pair of baby blue panties we picked up in a Bolivian market!
Six Nations is our event of choice for Feb and March - a good precursor for the Rugby World Cup in Sep! I’ve chosen Ireland as the favourite to win and yesterday they played like demons. Tim’s illustrious moustache has him feeling French and Ron’s backed the Red Roses (boooo).
After coffee and rugga we rode to a town called Santa Rosa - 75km away. The last 10km were in freezing cold wind and rain but we managed to find the priest of the town and he’s let us stay in a side room - very cosy and warm!
100km on the cards today, it should get prettier as we make our way down into Cusco over the next two days.
Day 76 - Monday
[2023/02/13]
Today's scenery has changed from vast vistas where we tagged our highest point on the bikes (4,335masl) to deep valleys strewn with ancient wisdom. The four of us agreed that we were well and truly in the land of the Incas now.
A spectacular day out on the bikes. Wowza. This is a pretty epic thing we’re doing. Have to pinch ourselves now and then!
Day 79 - Thursday
[2023/02/16]
Hello all! Excuse my lack of comms, we’ve had a few days to settle into Cusco and experience an amazing part of the world - if only the walls could speak here! There is an incredible feeling of history, culture and vibrancy when walking through the cobbled streets. The historic centre of Cusco is breathtaking.
As the stars tend to align on a journey like this, we are in Cusco for Carnival, a massive celebration that happens throughout Latin America and is celebrated in many different ways.
We were lucky enough to partake in the celebrations and it turned out to be an absolute blast! The entire central square turned into a war zone with water balloons and foam sprays as the choice of artillery. Taking full advantage of the situation we turned into kids and joined in on the fun.
Today we head off to the Sacred Valley, in essence, the heart of the Inca empire. We’re about to pick up our hired car and wind our way through the many archaeological sites and villages that dot the valley over the day. From there we’ll spend the night in a town at the foothills of Machu Picchu so we can hike up first thing tomorrow morning!
Should be an amazing two days acquainting ourselves with one of the most magical civilisations to grace the earth - I can’t wait to share my findings!
Day 81 - Saturday
[2023/02/18]
I am in complete awe of the sights we’ve seen over the last two days.
50km North of Cusco lies the Sacred Valley - a spectacle of steep valleys, gurgling rivers and of course, marvellous Inca ruins! This is a special and important place - I feel compelled to brush up on my knowledge of the Incas.
Hiking up and setting our sights on Machu Picchu was breathtaking. The scale, detail, symbolism, ingenuity, raw energy and beauty surpassed any expectations I had!
Fortunately, Machu Picchu re-opened on Wednesday due to the riots calming down. We shared the experience with less than 100 people! It felt as if we had the entire place to ourselves which is very uncommon in normal circumstances!
Machu Picchu was set up by the king as a sacred citadel to acquire and further knowledge on religion, astrology, engineering and crop hybridisation with only the most noble and astute of Incas chosen. Machu Picchu to the Incas is what Alexandria was to the Egyptians. We’ve got today and tomorrow to soak it all in and then we’re off to the mountains for some spectacular riding and hiking.
Day 87 - Friday
[2023/02/24]
Freezing start to the day at 4*C with a real feel of 2*C! Joh, we Saffas are not used to these sorts of temps! Super glad to have First Ascent gearing us up - the AR-X Waterproof Running Jacket has been a lifesaver protecting us from the frigid winds!
Yesterday we had big plans to complete our first 200km day but as things tend to fold out on the road, not all went to plan.
With a firm grasp of our goal and around 100kms in, Tim was the victim of two consecutive punctures just before a 130km downhill.
We hunkered down in what one could only consider a bomb bunker - a gas storage room at a petrol station was our cosy refuge for the night!
Punctures patched and spirits high, we’re about to bomb that downhill and freewheel into Huanuco for half a day off.
Day 90 - Monday
[2023/02/27]
Good morning from 4000m up in the Andes!
Yesterday we had a monster climb - 2117m to be exact - long, gruelling, 90% dirt and 100% beautiful.
Today we ride to our departure town, Banõs. The gateway to our 5-day trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash!
We are chomping at the bit to get into the mountains and experience one of Peru’s gems.
We’ll touch base soon!